During the last days of June, with summer just around the corner, our Enjoy Discovering Wine Alumni Club welcomed warmth and sunshine with wines from Alsace.
Sheltered from oceanic influence by the Vosges mountains, and settled between Germany and France, the Alsace wine region is influenced by both countries in terms of culture and winemaking.
The vineyard area stretches along a narrow strip of land 140 kilometres long, between the foothills of the Vosges Mountains and the river Rhine. The region is sheltered from rain by the Vosges, and enjoys one of the lowest rainfalls in France, therefore blessed with a semi-continental climate, being sunny, hot, and dry. Situated on the sub-Vosgian foothill, at an altitude of 200-400m and, sometimes on the steepest slopes, the vineyards make the most of their exposure to the sun. The vines are trained along high wires allowing for maximum exposure with slow extended ripening of grapes. The resulting wines show elegant and complex aromas.
Alsace’s varied geology and diversity of soils made up of granite, limestone, gneiss, schist, and sandstone amongst others, helps to bring out the finest characteristics of each grape variety while the site terroir attributes individuality, complexity, and a broad range of wine styles.
Because of the sunny and dry conditions in Alsace, disease pressure is low, therefore organic and biodynamic viticulture is widely practised.
Key varietals include the ‘noble grapes’ of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat, followed by Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois, of course Sylvaner, but also the up-and-coming Pinot Noir.
Our session showcased wines from three distinct wineries, Domaine Stenz-Buecher, Cave Jean Geiler and Cave de Ribeauville and focused on the varieties of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Noir.
Domaine Stentz-Buecher
We opened our tasting with Céline from Domaine Stentz-Buecher, a family winery based in Wettolsheim, just below Colmar in the heart of Alsace. Established in 1975 with only 4 hectares, the family today owns 12 hectares of vineyards all 100% certified organic by Ecocert. The business is managed by Céline’s brother Stéphane who is responsible for the wine-making, while Céline runs the commercial side of the winery. The Domaine’s wine making philosophy is based on observation and love of nature and is about allowing the vine to grow and the wine to evolve by natural means, with minimal intervention. The winery works with all permitted Alsace grape varieties producing approximately 50,000 bottles per year with the wines mostly sold in France, Germany, and the rest of Europe.
Wine number one, Domaine Stentz-Buecher Riesling Tradition 2020 Alsace AC, 12.5% ABV, was made by parcels of healthy Riesling grapes manually harvested from various vineyard sites, some on hillside plots and some on the plain. The wine was gently pressed to have the primary fruit preserved. The fermentation begun naturally with ambient yeasts at a temperature of 14-18° and was carefully monitored throughout.
Post fermentation, the wine spent eight months on lees that added extra texture and aromatic character. We found an array of expressive aromas of lime and lime peel, lemon, yellow apple, apricot, peach, fresh green pineapple, white blossom, chamomile flowers, with notes of herbs and a mineral saline nose. On the palate it is dry with the intense fruit being balanced well by high acidity, hallmark of the Riesling variety. It ends in a long mouth-watering finish. A delicious dry Riesling that can pair well with seafood, sushi, poultry, and white meat but also goat’s and sheep’s cheese.
Cave Jean Geiler
We followed with a presentation from Francis and Aurelie of Cave Jean Geiler also around Colmar. Cave Jean Geiler is a cooperative established in 1926 by 34 wine growers. The vignerons joined their forces with the mission to re-establish and revive the vineyards but mostly make economically viable wine post WWI. Nowadays the cooperative hosts 185 growers 90% of which are situated 10klm north and South of Colmar. Their vineyards span 478 hectares with their Grand Crus situated on slopes and the rest more to the plain. Six to seven per cent of their entire production comes from their Grand Cru sites. The Cave showcases a generous production of 4.5 million bottles per year, one million of which is Crémant d’Alsace. A key player both nationally and worldwide Cave Jean Geiler cultivate a wide range of all permitted Alsace grape varieties of all styles, from dry to sweet still white, rose, red, and orange, but also sparkling. Their main export markets involve Norway, Germany, Switzerland and Belgium and they are active in HO.RE.CA., as well as specialised wine shops.
On to wine number two, Cave Jean Geiler, Riesling Florimont 2018, Alsace Grand Cru AC, 13.5% ABV. The vineyard of Florimont is placed between Ingersheim and Katzenthal and enjoys a sunny terroir with limestone fossilised soil. Low yield grapes are manually harvested and gently pressed with natural clarification at low temperature. After fermentation, the wine spends 9 months on the lees. This was classic Riesling with tropical fruit, pineapple, mango, ripe lemon, orange, peach, and apricot, with subtle hints of petrol and blossom. Just off dry on the palate, with enough fruit balanced well against the high acidity and that hint of sweetness. It finishes off with a mineral note. Pairs well with traditional sauerkraut and sausages or smoked pork, Spicy Indian or Eastern dishes as well as fish or goat’s cheese.
Wine number three, Cave Jean Geiler Gewurztraminer 2019, Alsace AC, 13.5%ABV was voted unanimously as wine of the night. Pure Gewurztraminer aromas of rose, jasmine, ripe aromas of tropical fruit, lychee, liquorice, mango, with pepper and spice notes. Just off dry on the palate, as Francis and Aurelie explained 2019 was a later maturing vintage where ripeness accumulated slowly, with rich aromatics that stood up well against the touch of sweetness. This showed a superb velvety and textured mouthfeel due to the extended period the wine spent on fine lees post fermentation. Francis recommended to pair this with the local Munster cheese and plum jam, but also with Thai curries where the sweetness would tone down the spice while its aromas and spices would elevate the aromatics and spices of the dish.
Cave de Ribeauvillé
Wines four and five were courtesy of the Cave de Ribeauvillé, presented by the recently appointed CEO, David Jaegle.
Cave de Ribeauvillé, established in 1895 is the oldest wine cooperative of France and are operating in a more singular way, meaning they are strict in their parcel selection and the way they cultivate and pick their grapes. The Cave growers own 225 ha of vineyards and are almost solely dedicated to vineyard farming. The grapes are always harvested by hand while their vineyards are sustainably farmed. Since 2004 part of their vineyards are certified organic by Ecocert and more and more of their growers are now converting their practices to becoming organic. The Cave has seven Grand Crus vineyards that produce prestigious aromatic wines suitable for ageing, eight Lieux-Dits that produce affordable wines that are typical of their terroir, and three Villages that produce rare and delicate wines.
The grapes for wine number four Cave de Ribeauvillé, Gewurztraminer Bio 2017, Alsace AC 13.5%, came from an Ecocert certified organically farmed vineyard with south and south-east exposure and clay-limestone soils situated on hillside vineyards around Ribeauvillé. The fermentation started with organic selected yeasts vinified in stainless steel tanks in controlled temperature (20-22 Celsius). The wine spent six months on lees, then was filtered lightly and then bottled and rested again on the remaining lees for one year prior to release. Comparing wine four against the Gewurztraminer on wine three, we tasted a sweeter wine, a result of the very warm, sunny, and dry 2017 vintage. This showed concentrated tropical fruit such as banana, lychee, melon, and pineapple with oriental spices. 
The acidity is low, typical of Gewurztraminer; however, this was a well-balanced wine as the intensity of flavour stood up well against the sweetness. The wine finished off long, with all fruit flavours and spices continuing to linger. Because of its sweeter style, we would pair this with blue cheeses or of course the classic Munster cheese but also spicy Asian or Mexican food.
Wine number five Cave de Ribeauvillé, Pinot Noir Bio 2020, Alsace AC, 13%, has come also from organically certified hillside vineyards around Ribeauvillé with granitic sand and clay-limestone soils. Destemmed bunches were vinified and macerated in stainless steel vats for 3-4 weeks with manual punch downs. Post fermentation, the skins and juice were separated, the wine transferred to old oak barrels where malolactic conversion occurred. It then spent 9 months on fine lees, before being lightly filtered and bottled. Following this the wine rested at least one year on its lees in the Cave’s ageing cellar. Intense cherry, strawberry, and raspberry aromas with notes of prunes and coffee beans. A brilliantly made balanced and structured dry wine with easily distinguished fruit aromatics elegantly present alongside its invigorating acidity and velvety smooth tannins. We enjoyed this with BBQed beef, it can pair well with a variety of red meat dishes, cheddar cheese and, why not, chocolate desserts with red fruit compote.
Final wine of the evening
Wine number six Domaine Stentz-Buecher, Pinot Noir Granit 2017, Alsace AC 14%, came from low yield vineyards whose grapes were manually harvested. Grapes were destemmed upon arrival at the winery and ambient yeast fermentation took place alongside a fifteen to twenty days maceration with twice a day manual punch down. Following this, the grapes were pressed, then skins separated and the wine transferred to 228lt oak barrels of 3 and up to 10 years old where it went through malolactic conversion. The wine is bottled without filtration and without the addition of sulphites, therefore we would say this is a Natural Wine.
This reminded of aged Burgundy made old style, with ripe strawberry and cherry, violet, mushroom, raisins and currants wet earth, game, and a funky note. There was complexity to the wine as more aromas kept popping out of the glass as time passed. On the palate, the above average acidity and smooth tannins were balanced well by the similar level of flavour intensity. The finish was long with the layered flavours continuing throughout. Enjoy with game, beef bourguignon, olive tapenade on warm toasted bread, roast lamb, and hearty stews.
There are so many reasons to love Alsatian wines; the diversity of the classic noble grapes, their density of structure, the assortment of soils give terroir driven wines, while varying levels of sweetness can capture many styles and match a variety of cuisines. Looking forward, the region is adapting to the accelerated climate change by marking the renaissance for Pinot Noir and we look forward to trying more examples in the future, especially since the grape was given the go-ahead in two AOCs in Alsace this year.
If you have a minimum of WSET Level 2 wine qualification, you are welcome to join the Enjoy Discovering Wine Alumni Club, which meets online 10 times annually. For more details: Alumni Club.
Stockists’ list:
Domaine Stentz-Buecher (different vintages): Riesling Tradition 2018 @ Vintagecellars.co.uk, Pinot Noir Granite 2014: Vintagecellars.co.uk
Cave de Ribeauvillé (different vintages): Gewurztraminer 2020: The Fine Wine Company & Vinotopia.
Gewurztraminer 2021: The Drink Shop
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